All terrains

Basin and butte

Desert destinations in the USA


American deserts are not empty. Monument Valley, Death Valley, White Sands, and Organ Pipe sit beside quieter basins where the light lasts longer than the towns.

Monument Valley, Utah / Arizona — West Mitten at last light

FrontispieceMonument Valley, Utah / Arizona

These plates cover red-rock buttes, alkali flats, and shrub steppe. Early starts, spare water, and a map of landforms matter more than a single park name.

Plates
42
States
9

States in this chapter

  • Arizona
  • California
  • Nevada
  • New Mexico
  • Oregon
  • Texas
  • Utah
  • Utah / Arizona
  • Wyoming

Desert chapter

The plates


West Mitten at last light
Plate III

Monument Valley

desert

Navajo Tribal Park, Utah / Arizona

Red buttes standing like ships on a sea of sage.

37.0° N · 110.1° WOpen plate →

Delicate Arch at sundown
Plate IV

Arches

desert

Arches National Park, near Moab, Utah

A desert of windows punched through red rock.

38.7° N · 109.6° WOpen plate →

Mesquite Flat dunes at first light
Plate VII

Death Valley

desert

Mojave & Great Basin, California

A basin so deep the air itself grows heavy.

36.5° N · 116.9° WOpen plate →

Banded claystone at Painted Hills
Plate XIV

Painted Hills

desert

John Day Fossil Beds, Oregon

A hillside painted by climates that no longer exist.

44.7° N · 120.3° WOpen plate →

Cathedral Rock above Oak Creek
Plate XXXI

Sedona

desert

Red Rock Country, Verde Valley, Arizona

Red rock that holds the last of the sun like a coal.

34.9° N · 111.8° WOpen plate →

Sunrise fire under Mesa Arch
Plate XXXII

Mesa Arch

desert

Island in the Sky, Canyonlands, Utah

A stone eyelid that opens onto the whole plateau.

38.4° N · 109.9° WOpen plate →

Sunrise on Hidden Valley granite
Plate XXXIII

Joshua Tree

desert

Mojave & Colorado Deserts, California

A garden of stone and a tree that is not quite a tree.

33.9° N · 115.9° WOpen plate →

Cross-beds of the Fire Wave
Plate XXXIV

Valley of Fire

desert

Mojave Desert, near Lake Mead, Nevada

A small desert of flame-colored stone, easily missed.

36.5° N · 114.5° WOpen plate →

Tufa towers in a pink Mono dawn
Plate XLII

Mono Lake

desert

Eastern Sierra, near Lee Vining, California

A pale inland sea planted with stone trees.

38.0° N · 119.0° WOpen plate →

Mushroom hoodoos standing in the San Rafael Desert
Plate LIII

Goblin Valley

desert

San Rafael Desert, near Hanksville, Utah

A valley of stone figures that look as if they might walk at dusk.

38.6° N · 110.7° WOpen plate →

Red-and-white Needles standing in a stone city
Plate LIV

The Needles

desert

Canyonlands National Park, Needles District, Utah

A city of stone towers with almost no one in the streets.

38.1° N · 109.8° WOpen plate →

Swirled sandstone at White Pocket, last light
Plate LVII

White Pocket

desert

Vermilion Cliffs, Paria Plateau, Arizona

A stone that looks poured, then frozen mid-pour.

37.0° N · 111.9° WOpen plate →

Temples of the Sun and Moon in Cathedral Valley
Plate LVIII

Cathedral Valley

desert

Capitol Reef National Park, north district, Utah

A desert nave with two red temples and no congregation.

38.5° N · 111.1° WOpen plate →

Owachomo Bridge spanning White Canyon
Plate LXI

Natural Bridges

desert

White Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah

A quieter Arches, cut by water instead of frost.

37.6° N · 110.0° WOpen plate →

A stone log and the banded Chinle at dusk
Plate LXIV

Blue Mesa

desert

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

A hillside wearing the colors of a vanished river.

34.9° N · 109.8° WOpen plate →

El Capitan in last light
Plate LXVIII

Guadalupe Mountains

desert

Permian Reef, Chihuahuan Desert, Texas

A fossil sea, now a mountain, now a wall of evening fire.

31.9° N · 104.9° WOpen plate →

Painted ridges of the McCullough Peaks
Plate XCV

McCullough Peaks

desert

Bighorn Basin, east of Cody, Wyoming

A naked range of colored hills the basin kept for itself.

44.6° N · 108.8° WOpen plate →

Hoodoos in Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah
Plate CXIV

Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah

desert

San Juan Basin, New Mexico

A wilderness that learned to grow wings.

36.2° N · 107.9° WOpen plate →

A sphinx of mudstone in the Bisti
Plate CXXIII

Bisti / De-Na-Zin

desert

San Juan Basin, New Mexico

A wilderness that looks like another planet’s shore.

36.3° N · 108.2° WOpen plate →

Buttes of Valley of the Gods
Plate CXXV

Valley of the Gods

desert

Cedar Mesa, Utah

The valley the buses forgot.

37.3° N · 109.9° WOpen plate →

White towers of the Wahweap Hoodoos
Plate CXXVI

Wahweap Hoodoos

desert

Grand Staircase–Escalante, near Big Water, Utah

A choir of white stone in an empty wash.

37.1° N · 111.5° WOpen plate →

Factory Butte over the Mancos badlands
Plate CXXVII

Factory Butte

desert

Factory Bench, near Hanksville, Utah

A butte that looks like it belongs to another planet.

38.3° N · 110.9° WOpen plate →

Clay spires of Cathedral Gorge
Plate CXXVIII

Cathedral Gorge

desert

eastern Nevada, near Panaca, Nevada

A church the weather built out of lakebed.

37.8° N · 114.4° WOpen plate →

Honeycomb fins of Little Finland
Plate CXXIX

Little Finland

desert

Gold Butte, northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada

A red stone that learned to be lace.

36.4° N · 114.2° WOpen plate →

Tufa spires on the Searles lakebed
Plate CXXXVI

Trona Pinnacles

desert

Searles Lake, near Ridgecrest, California

A stone forest that grew underwater, then the water left.

35.6° N · 117.4° WOpen plate →

The Borrego Badlands from Font’s Point
Plate CXXXVII

Anza-Borrego

desert

Colorado Desert, Font’s Point, California

A desert that hides an ocean of folded earth.

33.3° N · 116.2° WOpen plate →

The limestone pyramid in Pyramid Lake
Plate CXL

Pyramid Lake

desert

Pyramid Lake Paiute Reservation, Nevada

A desert sea with a pyramid for an island.

40.0° N · 119.6° WOpen plate →

Calico Hills under a desert sky
Plate CXLI

Red Rock Canyon

desert

Spring Mountains, west of Las Vegas, Nevada

Red stone the city almost hid.

36.1° N · 115.4° WOpen plate →

The Alvord playa under Steens Mountain
Plate CXLII

Alvord Desert

desert

east of Steens Mountain, Oregon

A white floor under Oregon’s secret escarpment.

42.5° N · 118.5° WOpen plate →

Chimneys of Kodachrome under broken cloud
Plate CXLVI

Kodachrome Basin

desert

Grand Staircase, near Cannonville, Utah

Stone chimneys named for a color of film.

37.5° N · 112.0° WOpen plate →

Organ pipe cactus under the Ajo Range
Plate CLI

Organ Pipe

desert

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona

A cactus forest that barely crosses the border.

32.0° N · 112.8° WOpen plate →

Salt polygons of the Bonneville Flats
Plate CLII

Bonneville Salt Flats

desert

west of Wendover, Great Salt Lake Desert, Utah

A lake that dried into a sheet of light.

40.8° N · 113.8° WOpen plate →

The sheer limestone wall of Notch Peak from Sawtooth Canyon
Plate CXCVI

Notch Peak

desert

House Range, west of Delta, Utah

A limestone wall the desert stood on end.

39.1° N · 113.4° WOpen plate →

Balanced toadstool hoodoos on the Paria Rimrocks
Plate CCXVII

Toadstool Hoodoos

desert

Paria Rimrocks, Utah

Capstones the rimrocks learned to balance.

37.5° N · 111.9° WOpen plate →

Looking through Nancy Holt’s Sun Tunnels on the Lucin playa
Plate CCXXXIII

Sun Tunnels

desert

Lucin, Utah

Four tunnels that keep the sun’s appointments.

41.3° N · 113.9° WOpen plate →

The swirl bowl of The Wave, Coyote Buttes North
Plate CCXXXIV

The Wave

desert

Coyote Buttes North, Arizona

Stone that learned the motion of water.

37.0° N · 112.0° WOpen plate →

Saguaro silhouettes against an Arizona sunset
Plate CCXXXVI

Saguaro National Park

desert

Sonoran Desert, Tucson, Arizona

Arms the desert learned to hold up to the sun.

32.2° N · 111.2° WOpen plate →

Painted Desert badlands from Tawa Point
Plate CCXL

Painted Desert

desert

Tawa Point, Petrified Forest, Arizona

A desert that kept every color of old mud.

35.1° N · 109.8° WOpen plate →

Hoodoos and the river corridor from the River Road, Big Bend Ranch
Plate CCLXVI

Big Bend Ranch

desert

Chihuahuan Desert, west of Lajitas, Texas

The desert the national park does not own.

29.5° N · 104.1° WOpen plate →

A balanced boulder over Wide Hollow Reservoir, Escalante Petrified Forest
Plate CCLXXVI

Escalante Petrified Forest

desert

Wide Hollow, Escalante, Utah

A small forest the desert turned to stone.

37.8° N · 111.6° WOpen plate →

Tropic Shale badlands from The Blues Overlook
Plate CCCXXX

The Blues Overlook

desert

Scenic Byway 12, west of Escalante, Utah

Gray hills under a pink table of stone.

37.6° N · 111.8° WOpen plate →

Bentonite hills near Caineville on Factory Bench
Plate CCCXXXI

Moonscape Overlook

desert

Skyline Rim, Factory Bench (approx), Utah

Gray benches the Mancos kept after the sea left.

38.5° N · 110.8° WOpen plate →

Asked at the trailhead

Questions already asked


Which US deserts are worth visiting?
The Mojave, Sonoran, Chihuahuan, and Great Basin deserts all appear in this atlas, including Death Valley, Monument Valley, White Sands, and Organ Pipe.
Is desert travel only in summer?
No. Spring and fall are kinder in the low deserts. High basins can be cold at night year-round. Each plate notes elevation and landform.

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