The Field Atlas
0/363The divide
The Rockies are the spine of American mountain travel: alpine lakes, granite, and passes that still feel like a frontier.

FrontispieceChief Joseph Byway, Wyoming
These plates cover Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, and high parks — the ranges travelers mean when they say they want the high country. Larkins Lake and Fourth of July Lake are the quieter Idaho basins. Holland Lake is Swan Range water in Montana; Ice Lake is the San Juan cirque above Silverton.
Rockies
Plate XCIIPark County, Cody to the Beartooth, Wyoming
A red hill in a green park, and a mountain watching it.
44.7° N · 109.4° WOpen plate →
Plate XVIYellowstone Caldera, Wyoming
The ground here is still being written by fire.
44.4° N · 110.6° WOpen plate →
Plate XVIIGlacier National Park, Montana
A range still wearing the shape of its vanished ice.
48.8° N · 113.8° WOpen plate →
Plate XVIIIWhite River National Forest, near Aspen, Colorado
Two matching summits doubled in still water.
39.1° N · 107.0° WOpen plate →
Plate XIXSan Luis Valley, Colorado
A Sahara parked at the foot of fourteeners.
37.8° N · 105.6° WOpen plate →
Plate XXXVITeton Range, Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Mountains that begin without asking permission of the valley.
43.8° N · 110.7° WOpen plate →
Plate XXXVIIBear Lodge Mountains, Black Hills, Wyoming
A single stone column standing in a sea of prairie.
44.6° N · 104.7° WOpen plate →
Plate XXXVIIISnake River Plain, Idaho
A rehearsal for another planet, left in Idaho.
43.4° N · 113.5° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXISawtooth Range, near Stanley, Idaho
A hidden range of teeth above a town of two hundred souls.
44.1° N · 115.0° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXIIBeartooth Highway, Absaroka–Beartooth, Montana / Wyoming
A road that climbs until the trees give up.
45.0° N · 109.5° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXVIIAbsaroka Range, east of Yellowstone, Wyoming
The first forest the country decided to keep.
44.5° N · 109.6° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXXIIIBob Marshall Wilderness, Flathead National Forest, Montana
A forest big enough to lose a mountain range inside.
47.6° N · 113.4° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXXVWind River Range, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming
A flat-topped mountain doubled in still water.
43.3° N · 109.9° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXXIXAshley National Forest, Utah
A range that refused to run north–south.
40.7° N · 110.8° WOpen plate →
Plate XCIFrank Church–River of No Return Wilderness, Idaho
A river that named itself by refusing a way back.
44.7° N · 114.8° WOpen plate →
Plate XCIIIAbsaroka Range, north of Cody, Wyoming
A hidden valley the mountains forgot to close.
44.8° N · 109.5° WOpen plate →
Plate XCIVChief Joseph Scenic Byway, Wyoming
A pass that opens the Absarokas like a door.
44.7° N · 109.4° WOpen plate →
Plate XCVBighorn Basin, east of Cody, Wyoming
A naked range of colored hills the basin kept for itself.
44.6° N · 108.8° WOpen plate →
Plate XCVIsouth of Lander, Wind River Country, Wyoming
A red book of stone left open beside the highway.
42.7° N · 108.7° WOpen plate →
Plate XCVIIClarks Fork of the Yellowstone, Absaroka front, Wyoming
A white canyon the Beartooths cut on their way out.
44.9° N · 109.3° WOpen plate →
Plate XCVIIIGunnison River, Colorado
A canyon so narrow the day never quite arrives.
38.6° N · 107.7° WOpen plate →
Plate XCIXColorado Springs, Front Range, Colorado
Red towers holding a mountain in the doorway.
38.9° N · 104.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CSan Juan Mountains, near Ouray, Colorado
A mountain that learned to be a horn.
38.0° N · 107.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CIHandies Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado
A high meadow that blooms like a second sky.
37.9° N · 107.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CIIMillion Dollar Highway, San Juan Mountains, Colorado
Mountains that rusted in place.
37.9° N · 107.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CIIIGrand Valley, near Grand Junction, Colorado
A red canyon country the valley kept for a back wall.
39.0° N · 108.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CIVLa Garita Wilderness, Colorado
A town the volcano built and the weather unbuilt.
37.9° N · 106.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CVIWhite River Plateau, Colorado
Mountains that chose to be a table.
40.0° N · 107.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CVIISan Luis Valley front, Colorado
A range that stands up like a single sentence.
37.6° N · 105.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CVIIIwestern Colorado, above the Grand Valley, Colorado
A forest that learned to live on a table.
39.0° N · 108.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CIXPike National Forest, Front Range, Colorado
A wilderness that hides its own river.
39.3° N · 105.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CXSan Juan Mountains, north of Lake City, Colorado
A mountain that chose bulk over a horn.
38.1° N · 107.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CXVITaos Plateau, New Mexico
A crack the river opened in a lava floor.
36.5° N · 105.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXIXJemez Mountains, New Mexico
A mountain that became a meadow.
35.9° N · 106.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CXXIISangre de Cristo Range, near Taos, New Mexico
The highest thing in the state, and still quiet.
36.6° N · 105.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CXXXSnake River, Idaho–Oregon line, Idaho / Oregon
A canyon deeper than the famous one, and quieter.
45.4° N · 116.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXLIIIEagle Cap Wilderness, Wallowa County, Oregon
A granite range the Cascades do not own.
45.3° N · 117.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CXLIXAlbion Mountains, Cassia County, Idaho
A stone city the wagons named and then left.
42.1° N · 113.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CLWind River Range, Bridger Wilderness, Wyoming
A ring of towers around a lake that earned its name.
42.8° N · 109.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CLVIIIBighorn Mountains, Wyoming
The high roof of the Bighorns.
44.4° N · 107.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CLIXBighorn National Forest, US-14, Wyoming
A short, hard fall the highway stops to hear.
44.6° N · 107.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXBighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Wyoming / Montana
A canyon the river kept, then a lake filled.
45.0° N · 108.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXIeast of Kelly, Wyoming
Red hills the river kept for itself.
43.6° N · 110.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXIISlide Lake, Wyoming
The mountain that walked.
43.6° N · 110.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXIIIContinental Divide, east of Grand Teton, Wyoming
The east door that first shows the Tetons.
43.8° N · 110.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXIVnear Pinedale, Wind River Range, Wyoming
A cold lake the glaciers left at the door.
43.0° N · 109.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXVIRed Desert, Sweetwater County, Wyoming
Dunes that still move in a desert of sage.
42.0° N · 109.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXVIISnowy Range, Lake Marie, Wyoming
A granite lake the storms keep rewriting.
41.4° N · 106.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXVIIIwest of Douglas, Converse County, Wyoming
A stone span the creek refused to go around.
42.7° N · 105.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXIXLaramie Range, Wyoming
The mountain the plains use as a compass.
42.3° N · 105.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXMedicine Mountain National Historic Landmark, Wyoming
A stone circle still in use on the mountain.
44.8° N · 107.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXICloud Peak Skyway, US-16, Wyoming
A high lake the skyway leans toward.
44.2° N · 107.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXIIBighorn National Forest, US-16, Wyoming
A limestone hall the highway had to ask.
44.1° N · 107.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXIIIBighorn National Forest, US-14, Wyoming
A stone bow the highway runs under.
44.8° N · 107.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXIVUS-14A, west rim of the Bighorns, Wyoming
The west door of the mountains.
44.8° N · 107.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXVLarimer County, on the Wyoming line, Colorado
Red hills the prairie kept.
41.0° N · 105.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXVIhead of the box canyon, Telluride, Colorado
A white thread the canyon kept for a last wall.
37.9° N · 107.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXVIISan Juan Mountains, above Lizard Head Pass, Colorado
A tooth the volcano left standing.
37.8° N · 108.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXVIIInear Lizard Head Pass, Colorado
Sheep Mountain held in still water.
37.8° N · 107.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXIXNeedle Mountains, Weminuche Wilderness, Colorado
A granite room the Needles kept.
37.6° N · 107.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXbelow Mount Sneffels, Dallas Peak wall, Colorado
Turquoise water the cirque kept.
38.0° N · 107.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXINational Monument, near Pagosa Springs, Colorado
Two stones the mesa stood on end.
37.2° N · 107.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXVGlenwood Canyon, Colorado
A green bowl the canyon hid on a shelf.
39.6° N · 107.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXVICrystal, on the Crystal River, Colorado
A wooden house the river kept on a rock.
39.1° N · 107.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXVIIMcInnis Canyons NCA, west of Grand Junction, Colorado
A red window the canyon cut and kept.
39.2° N · 108.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXVIIIEcho Park, Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado
A river that learned to go around a ship of stone.
40.5° N · 109.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXIXEast Rifle Creek, Colorado
Three white ropes the limestone let go.
39.7° N · 107.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXCnear Great Sand Dunes, Colorado
A white fall the mountain hid in a crack.
37.6° N · 105.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CXCIWest Elk Mountains, Colorado
A gold hillside the clones kept together.
38.9° N · 107.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CXCIInear La Veta, southern plains, Colorado
Two volcanoes the plains could not wear down.
37.4° N · 105.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CXCVIIITwin Peaks Wilderness, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
Sundial held in a still bowl.
40.6° N · 111.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXCIXBig Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
A fall the rock learned to pour through a hole.
40.6° N · 111.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCTimpanogos Basin, Utah
A green bowl under the Timp wall.
40.4° N · 111.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCIAlbion Basin, Utah
A secret the basin spelled its own way.
40.6° N · 111.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCIIBear River Range, Utah
Limestone over a still northern lake.
41.9° N · 111.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCIIIHigh Uintas Wilderness, Utah
A quartzite keep above its own lake.
40.8° N · 110.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCIVDinosaur National Monument, Jensen, Utah
A mountain the river learned to cut in two.
40.4° N · 109.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCVIUtah–Idaho line, Utah
A lake that learned a Caribbean blue.
41.9° N · 111.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXIVNokhu Crags, Never Summer Range, Colorado
The crags Rocky Mountain Park looks at and does not keep.
40.7° N · 106.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXXCimarron Ridge, Uncompahgre NF, Colorado
A reservoir the Cimarron walls still keep.
38.2° N · 107.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXXIColumbine high country, San Juan NF, Colorado
A red-banded horn the Columbine forest still looks at.
37.7° N · 107.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXXIIConejos River, Rio Grande high country, Colorado
A reservoir the Conejos walls still keep.
37.4° N · 106.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXXIIIHoly Cross Wilderness, White River NF, Colorado
A cross of snow the wilderness still keeps.
39.5° N · 106.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXXVIIBitterroot National Forest, Ravalli County, Montana
A granite canyon the Bitterroot still cuts.
46.3° N · 114.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXXVIIICabinet Mountains Wilderness, Kootenai NF, Montana
Lakes the Cabinet walls still hold.
48.2° N · 115.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXCSewemup and Unaweep country, Uncompahgre NF, Colorado
A mesa the forest still keeps high.
38.5° N · 108.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXCIAnaconda-Pintler Wilderness, Beaverhead-Deerlodge NF, Montana
A wilderness the Pintler wall still keeps.
46.0° N · 113.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXIIIBruneau Dunes State Park, Snake River Plain, Idaho
A pale dune ridge over sage and a hard Idaho sky.
42.9° N · 115.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXVIWasatch saddle, Salt Lake and Wasatch counties, Utah
A high saddle the canyon road has to cross.
40.6° N · 111.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXVIIAmerican Fork fee area, Alpine Loop, Utah
Cold water building its own stone stairs.
40.5° N · 111.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXVIIIUtah 150, Kamas to the Wyoming line, Utah
The paved road that reads the west Uintas.
40.7° N · 110.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXIXUS-89, Logan Canyon, Utah
Limestone windows in the canyon wall.
41.8° N · 111.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXLIIIMallard-Larkins Pioneer Area, St. Joe, Idaho
A named lake under its own Clearwater peak.
47.0° N · 115.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXLIVWhite Cloud Mountains, Sawtooth NRA, Idaho
High water in the quieter range beside the Sawtooths.
44.0° N · 114.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCLIVSwan Range, Flathead National Forest, Montana
A Forest Service lake under the Swan crest.
47.5° N · 113.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCLVIIIce Lake Basin, San Juan National Forest, Colorado
A high turquoise bowl above Silverton.
37.8° N · 107.8° WOpen plate →
Asked at the trailhead
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