The Field Atlas
0/363Vertical country
This chapter is the vertical country: river gorges, plateau rims, and slot canyons cut through the Colorado Plateau, with a few quieter cuts farther afield.

FrontispieceGrand Canyon, Arizona
A canyon plate is a place to stand on the edge and read the stone — layered walls, a river at the bottom, light that only lasts an hour. Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico hold most of this chapter. Dark Canyon is the roadless cut behind the Needles. Texas adds Palo Duro, quieter Caprock and Copper Breaks, Seminole on the Pecos, Colorado Bend, and Lake Meredith. Montana adds Blodgett’s granite trough. The East adds Linville Gorge.
Canyon chapter
Plate ISouth Rim, Coconino County, Arizona
Two billion years of stone stacked like a book, opened by the Colorado River.
36.1° N · 112.1° WOpen plate →
Plate IINavajo Nation, near Page, Arizona
Wind and flood wrote a corridor of fire-colored stone.
36.9° N · 111.4° WOpen plate →
Plate VZion National Park, Utah
A river walking through a cathedral of red walls.
37.3° N · 113.0° WOpen plate →
Plate VIIIChihuahuan Desert, Rio Grande, Texas
Where the river cuts a door through desert mountains.
29.2° N · 103.3° WOpen plate →
Plate XXIXPaunsaugunt Plateau, Utah
A frozen congregation of stone, lit from within at sunrise.
37.6° N · 112.2° WOpen plate →
Plate XXXGlen Canyon, near Page, Arizona
The river turning back on itself in a perfect horseshoe of stone.
36.9° N · 111.5° WOpen plate →
Plate XLVWest Kauaʻi, Hawaii
The Grand Canyon of the Pacific — smaller, greener, just as sudden.
22.1° N · 159.7° WOpen plate →
Plate LAppalachian Plateau, near Fayetteville, West Virginia
An old river in a young park, under a high thin bridge.
38.1° N · 81.1° WOpen plate →
Plate LVCanyonlands National Park, north mesa, Utah
A tableland with two rivers cutting the floor out from under it.
38.5° N · 109.8° WOpen plate →
Plate LVIDead Horse Point State Park, near Moab, Utah
A peninsula of stone hanging over a river that has nowhere to hurry.
38.5° N · 109.7° WOpen plate →
Plate LIXMarkagunt Plateau, Utah
A Bryce that kept the altitude and lost the crowds.
37.6° N · 112.8° WOpen plate →
Plate LXSan Juan River, near Mexican Hat, Utah
A river that refused to straighten, and cut down instead.
37.2° N · 109.9° WOpen plate →
Plate LXIINavajo Nation, near Chinle, Arizona
A canyon that is still a home, not only a view.
36.1° N · 109.5° WOpen plate →
Plate LXVIICaprock Escarpment, Texas Panhandle, Texas
A Grand Canyon the plains kept for themselves.
35.0° N · 101.7° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXChanneled Scablands, Washington
A flood that ended twelve thousand years ago, still falling.
46.7° N · 118.2° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXIVFinger Lakes, south end of Seneca, New York
A staircase of water hidden in a fold of New York.
42.4° N · 76.9° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXVIDaniel Boone National Forest, Kentucky
A hidden canyon of arches under a Kentucky forest.
37.8° N · 83.6° WOpen plate →
Plate LXXIXSouthern Sierra Nevada, California
A Yosemite that kept the canyon and gave away the crowds.
36.8° N · 118.6° WOpen plate →
Plate XCIFrank Church–River of No Return Wilderness, Idaho
A river that named itself by refusing a way back.
44.7° N · 114.8° WOpen plate →
Plate XCVIsouth of Lander, Wind River Country, Wyoming
A red book of stone left open beside the highway.
42.7° N · 108.7° WOpen plate →
Plate XCVIIClarks Fork of the Yellowstone, Absaroka front, Wyoming
A white canyon the Beartooths cut on their way out.
44.9° N · 109.3° WOpen plate →
Plate XCVIIIGunnison River, Colorado
A canyon so narrow the day never quite arrives.
38.6° N · 107.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CIIIGrand Valley, near Grand Junction, Colorado
A red canyon country the valley kept for a back wall.
39.0° N · 108.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXVITaos Plateau, New Mexico
A crack the river opened in a lava floor.
36.5° N · 105.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXXIVnorth rim of the Grand Canyon, remote west, Arizona
The canyon without the crowd.
36.2° N · 113.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CXXXSnake River, Idaho–Oregon line, Idaho / Oregon
A canyon deeper than the famous one, and quieter.
45.4° N · 116.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXLIVColumbia River, Multnomah Falls to Rowena, Oregon / Washington
The river that opened the mountains to the sea.
45.6° N · 122.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CXLVIIIGrand Staircase–Escalante, Utah
A waterfall the canyon kept for itself.
37.8° N · 111.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CLIXBighorn National Forest, US-14, Wyoming
A short, hard fall the highway stops to hear.
44.6° N · 107.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXBighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Wyoming / Montana
A canyon the river kept, then a lake filled.
45.0° N · 108.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXVFlaming Gorge National Recreation Area, Utah / Wyoming
A red gorge the river turned into a lake.
40.9° N · 109.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXVIIIwest of Douglas, Converse County, Wyoming
A stone span the creek refused to go around.
42.7° N · 105.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXIIBighorn National Forest, US-16, Wyoming
A limestone hall the highway had to ask.
44.1° N · 107.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXIVUS-14A, west rim of the Bighorns, Wyoming
The west door of the mountains.
44.8° N · 107.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXIICliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado
A village the cliff still holds.
37.2° N · 108.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXIIIMesa Verde National Park, Colorado
A tower the alcove kept standing.
37.2° N · 108.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXIVwest of Cortez, BLM, Colorado
Homes set into red stone west of Cortez.
37.4° N · 109.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXVIIMcInnis Canyons NCA, west of Grand Junction, Colorado
A red window the canyon cut and kept.
39.2° N · 108.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXVIIIEcho Park, Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado
A river that learned to go around a ship of stone.
40.5° N · 109.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CLXXXIXEast Rifle Creek, Colorado
Three white ropes the limestone let go.
39.7° N · 107.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CXCnear Great Sand Dunes, Colorado
A white fall the mountain hid in a crack.
37.6° N · 105.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCIVDinosaur National Monument, Jensen, Utah
A mountain the river learned to cut in two.
40.4° N · 109.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCVGreen River, Utah
A river that kept its own distance.
39.5° N · 110.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CCVIISnow Canyon State Park, Utah
Red stone and a black river of rock.
37.2° N · 113.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCVIIIStrike Valley Overlook, Capitol Reef, Utah
A hundred miles of stone stood on edge.
37.8° N · 111.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CCIXCapitol Reef National Park, Utah
An arch you look down through.
38.3° N · 111.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXParia Canyon–Vermilion Cliffs, Utah
A slot that does not end soon.
37.0° N · 112.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXIDry Fork of Coyote Gulch, GSENM, Utah
A window the slot kept for itself.
37.5° N · 111.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXIINeon Canyon, Glen Canyon NRA, Utah
A room the potholes lit from above.
37.7° N · 111.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXIIIDevil's Garden, Grand Staircase–Escalante, Utah
A blade of stone the wind left standing.
37.6° N · 111.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXIVGrand Staircase–Escalante, Utah
Two windows in one cream wall.
37.5° N · 111.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXVZion National Park, north, Utah
Zion’s north wall, fingered into the plateau.
37.4° N · 113.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXVILeft Fork of North Creek, Zion, Utah
A tunnel the creek carved and kept.
37.3° N · 113.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXIXCapitol Reef National Park, Utah
A cream bridge the wash walked under.
38.3° N · 111.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXCapitol Reef National Park, Utah
A chimney the Reef stood alone.
38.3° N · 111.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXINorth Fork Virgin River, Zion, Utah
A cathedral you walk in the river.
37.3° N · 112.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXIIIZion Canyon, Utah
A ridge that keeps only as much path as it must.
37.3° N · 112.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXVMoab backcountry, Utah
A crown the cliff wore and opened.
38.6° N · 109.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXVIThe Maze, Canyonlands, Utah
A room of stone figures the Maze kept.
38.2° N · 109.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXVIIHorseshoe Canyon, Canyonlands, Utah
Figures the canyon has held for a very long time.
38.5° N · 110.2° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXVIIISan Rafael Swell, Utah
A narrow walk the Swell cut for a horse.
38.6° N · 110.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXIXSan Rafael Swell, Utah
A little Grand Canyon the Swell kept.
39.1° N · 110.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXXMule Canyon, Utah
Rooms the ceiling still seems to warm.
37.5° N · 109.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXXICedar Mesa rim, Utah
A rim that looks past the river’s turns.
37.2° N · 110.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXXIIHovenweep National Monument, Utah
Towers a community set on the rim.
37.4° N · 109.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXXXVHavasupai Reservation, Arizona
A blue pool the red wall still holds.
36.3° N · 112.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXLIIICoconino National Forest, Sedona, Arizona
A bridge the hollow left standing.
34.9° N · 111.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXLIVArizona–Utah corridor, Arizona
A river that kept both states for a hallway.
36.9° N · 111.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXLVColorado River, Arizona
A marble-named trench the river kept narrow.
36.8° N · 111.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXLVINorth Rim, Grand Canyon, Arizona
The North Rim’s long look into the eastern gorge.
36.1° N · 111.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCXLVIIICaprock Escarpment, near Quitaque, Texas
Palo Duro’s quieter red cut, still wearing prairie.
34.4° N · 101.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXIIPease River breaks, Hardeman County, Texas
A red break the Panhandle kept smaller.
34.1° N · 99.8° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXVIIIMills Canyon, Canadian River, New Mexico
A river canyon the grassland hid.
36.0° N · 104.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXPecos River, Val Verde County, Texas
A Pecos canyon that keeps its shade.
29.7° N · 101.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXIColorado River, San Saba County, Texas
A river bend that still keeps a waterfall.
31.0° N · 98.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXVCanadian River breaks, Hutchinson County, Texas
Blue water the Panhandle hid in red breaks.
35.6° N · 101.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXVIIIBlue Ridge escarpment, Burke County, North Carolina
The East’s deep gorge, still wearing fall.
35.9° N · 81.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCLXXXVIIBitterroot National Forest, Ravalli County, Montana
A granite canyon the Bitterroot still cuts.
46.3° N · 114.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCIXLetchworth State Park, Genesee Gorge, New York
Middle Falls, a rainbow, and October hardwood.
42.6° N · 78.0° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXVIIITaughannock Falls State Park, Cayuga Lake, New York
A white thread in a limestone bowl of October.
42.5° N · 76.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXIXPetit Jean State Park, Arkansas River Valley, Arkansas
A white drop in a ring of October sandstone.
35.1° N · 92.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXVCanyon Rims Recreation Area, Hatch Point, Utah
A Hatch Point balcony over a city of striped stone.
38.3° N · 109.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXVICanyon Rims Recreation Area, Hatch Point, Utah
A river fold read from the opposite rim.
38.5° N · 109.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXVIICanyon Rims Recreation Area, Hatch Point, Utah
Island country read from the east rim.
38.4° N · 109.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXVIIIScenic Byway 12, east of Escalante, Utah
Slickrock falling away under a black highway thread.
37.7° N · 111.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXIXScenic Byway 12, Escalante River, Utah
A red canyon the highway has to cross.
37.8° N · 111.4° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXIIPadre Bay cape, Glen Canyon NRA (approx), Utah
A stone table over a drowned canyon.
37.1° N · 111.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXIIIUtah 261, Cedar Mesa switchbacks, Utah
A mesa wall the road learned to descend.
37.3° N · 109.9° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXIVComb Wash at UT-95, San Juan County, Utah
A stone comb standing over its own wash.
37.5° N · 109.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXVBurr Desert, Dirty Devil rim, Utah
A desert rim over a named dirty river.
38.2° N · 110.5° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCXXXIXUS-89, Logan Canyon, Utah
Limestone windows in the canyon wall.
41.8° N · 111.7° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCLIIIDark Canyon Wilderness, Manti-La Sal NF, Utah
A quiet cut behind the Needles.
37.9° N · 110.1° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCLVIIIKI Jo-Mary, Piscataquis County, Maine
A slate gorge in the northern Maine woods.
45.5° N · 69.3° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCLIXLookout Mountain, DeKalb County, Alabama
A river that runs on top of a mountain.
34.4° N · 85.6° WOpen plate →
Plate CCCLXIIIBlanco County, east of Johnson City, Texas
A Hill Country river laid out in stone steps.
30.3° N · 98.2° WOpen plate →
Asked at the trailhead
Change course